I purchased this Eliminator  scoop from a parts dealer in Toronto.  This is the same scoop that was used on the Comet GT’s.  It was cracked in several places and the side wing of the fiberglass unit was broken right off.  The irony of my purchasing this scoop is that I had one on my shelf for years and years. This scoop I finally said to myself that I would never need it.  I installed it on a custom Ford truck I was building for sale.  Six years later I find myself sucked back into building cars again and now require said scoop.  That is why I rarely throw anything away.  True to form if you throw it away, you will need it a week later and be forced to buy  what you just got rid of.

I used an orbital sander with 150 grit to buzz the layers of old paint, primer, sealer, to the original white fiberglass.  The cracks in the scoop surface now could be seen.  I used a small grinding bit on my Dremel tool to make a valley through the cracks so that I could re fill the trough I had made with fiberglass liquid resin.  I had watched a Youtube video a while ago stating not to use too much liquid hardener in the resin and that only a few drops were needed.  I used only a few drops and applied cloth and resin in layers to build up where it was broken.  Initially I used a fiberglass putty on the out side to hold the pieces together so that the work could be done with the cloth layers on the inside of the scoop.  There was a piece missing out of the back of the scoop that I had to build up as well.  The next day my resin was still sticky and wet.  A few drops……for sure.  Thanks Youtube genius for leading me down that path.  Now I had to add more layers hoping that my new potion of hardener and liquid resin would saturate the bottom layers that were not drying.  This is a chemical process to induce hardening.   You can feel the heat being released as it hardens.  By the next day all seemed fine, hopefully, or pieces of that scoop will fly off while I am driving.  I don’t like working with fiberglass resin.  As I sanded the white fiberglass body to level where I filled the trough I had made through the cracks with the resin, the fine dust landed on my clothes and exposed arm.  The itching began soon after.  Small glass particles were imbedding in my skin.  An orbital with a vacuum attachment would have been greatly appreciated.  I do not possess such a set up.  Once sanding was finished I sprayed a couple of coats of primer surfacer on the scoop.  After block sanding this I sprayed a sealer on the surface and then proceeded to  paint.  I will use a primer sealer that is a 1 k sealer on fiberglass items or where I am scared the solvents in the paint will react with the underlying layers.  The semi gloss black trim paint I am using has lots of solvents to allow it to flow out of the aerosol can.  Light coats are needed.  The next day I could see a couple of body work flaws on the surface that I could not see as I sanded the primer surfacer.   Here again my inner voice told me to leave it alone because it was good enough.  My inner demon took over again and I sanded the imperfections out.  Now I needed to re prime the areas I had to sand right down to the fiberglass body to fix.  Now the primer reacted horribly with the solvents that were still gassing off from the black paint.  This was a day later but obviously it was too soon.  Now I had to re sand the reaction areas and block sand again and this time I just used the sealer to cover the areas.  Usually the sealer is more forgiving as long as you only apply light coats.  I eventually got it sprayed with two coats of black again and it looks better.  This job should not have been this difficult.  Had I used a light mist top spray on the surface before the black I would have found the imperfections and fixed before applying the black solvent laden paint.  All of these products are not cheap to purchase.  I hate wasting product from either stupidity, laziness, or just poor eye sight.  Not sure which one of these could be applied to this situation.  This is another pain in the ass job complete and waiting for installation in the future.  The more of these smaller jobs that can be accomplished ahead of the car being completely painted and waiting parts installation the better.  These small jobs can be frustrating if done at the end. They require concentration, time and effort and I know not to let these task wait until the end of the build.  It is here at the end that I might just settle for poorer quality to get the car on the road.  Ps, last week I found a scoop in Winnipeg for the same price that I had paid for this scoop, but was without the broken pieces.  Sometimes you can wait and find better pieces but sometimes it is hard to find at all.  The yellow Comet I built a couple of years ago I purchased a whole car to get the scoop and the mirrors for my build.  It turned out that I used the engine as well so it wasn’t so bad to have to buy a whole car for only a few pieces.  This is what a person has to do now unless you are starting out with a really complete project.